How To Brick Around A Window

Whether restoring former houses or edifice new ones that look old, Tom Silva finds finish carpentry the most satisfying function of the job. For this project, Tom shows you how to install window trim that has reeded side and caput casings, plain corner blocks, a thick stool, and a nice apron, all of which he copied from the original trim. "People oft put in a casing that'southward also small or a unlike fashion," Tom says, "but I think information technology adds to the feel and the value of a home to keep to its original character."

As with all finish carpentry, Tom says, successful installation begins with stable material - articulate, kiln-dried forest or precast foam - and ends with precise measurements and cuts. The result is a seamless associates with tight joints and no gaps between wall and casing. "Take your time, and e'er measure twice before you cut," says Tom.

Step ane

Trimming Out a Window

When installing window casing in erstwhile houses, Tom often has to argue with walls that dip and bulge, causing gaps betwixt the trim and wall. He tin't ignore these imperfections, only he doesn't fill them with caulk. Instead, Tom uses wood filler strips. "I like to get out a overnice clean edge for the painter," he says.

To make them, he commencement rips a scrap slice of casing to a width of 1 inch and as long as the casing is high. He sets the legs of a compass to span the largest wall-to-casing gap (as shown in "Fill in the Gap" 1, far left). He then transfers that altitude to the confront of the flake wood (equally shown in "Fill in the Gap" 2). Adjacent, he places the strip perpendicular to the casing at its outside edge, resets the compass to the distance betwixt the largest gap and the mark on the scrap, and scribes the profile of the wall onto the bit piece (as shown in "Fill in the Gap" three). After cut along that line with a jigsaw, he applies carpenter's glue to the profiled chip piece and slides it into the gap so wall and trim marry perfectly (as shown in "Fill in the Gap" 4). "With a light sanding and paint, the joint disappears," Tom says.

Pace ii

Prep the Jambs

Agree a straightedge across the window; check that each jamb is flush with the wall. If they protrude, aeroplane them downwards to the wall. If the jambs fall brusk of the wall, measure the largest gap between the straightedge and each jamb. Then, from 1x stock, rip jamb extensions as broad as necessary and ¼inch thinner than the jamb thickness. Holding the strip against the jamb, drive 1 ½inch eighteen-gauge pneumatic nails (or 4d finish nails) every 8 to 10 inches. Airplane off any backlog.

Spread the legs of a compass ¼ inch and remainder the betoken on one of the jamb'due south lower inside corners. Using the inside face of the jamb every bit a guide, describe a reveal line forth the edges of all three jambs.

Tip: For a tight fit betwixt the casing and jamb, plane a slight bevel into the wall-side border of the jamb.

Footstep 3

Cut and Rabbet the Stool

Identify a side casing against the wall, aligned with the reveal line on a side jamb. Mark the wall at the casing'south outside edge. Echo for the opposite jamb. Measure between the marks, add 2 inches, and cut the stool to this length.

Place the stool face downward on the sill with its back border against the sill trim. Marking where the top of the trim meets the stool'southward end.

Keeping the back corner against the sill trim, slide the terminate of the upside-down stool against the jamb. Make a vertical mark where the end of the stool touches the jamb.

Connect the two marks with a foursquare and make an Ten in the area divers by the lines; this is the waste that volition be cut out to make the rabbet.

Remove the waste in two dissever rip cuts on a tabular array saw.

Stride iv

Notch and Install the Stool

Mark the stool's inside border ane inch from each end and place information technology across the opening. Marker where the stool'due south edge meets the inside border of the jambs. Set a square at those marks and draw "jamb lines" across the elevation of the stool. Rout the desired profile into the stool's edge and ends.

Align the jamb lines with the jambs' within edges. Ready the compass to the distance from the stool'south back edge to the sill trim. Concur the compass point against the wall and scribe lines from each cease of the stool to the jamb line.

Following the scribe lines, cutting a notch into each end of the stool with a jigsaw. Examination fit the stool; fine-tune it with a jigsaw, chisel, or sandpaper. Apply a dewdrop of glue to the sill.

Facenail the stool to the sill with 4 18-gauge nails (or 4d finish nails).

Footstep five

Install Side Casing

Cut a foursquare cease on a piece of casing and stand that end on the stool. Mark where its inside border meets the head jamb'southward reveal line. Make a foursquare cut at that mark. Echo on the opposite side.

Apply a dewdrop of gum to the casing where information technology overlaps the side jamb and on the end that sits on the stool; line up its border with the reveal line. Facenail the casing into the jamb with 4d cease nails, and to the wall with 8d terminate nails. Wipe up squeezed-out glue. Repeat the process on the other side.

Nail upwardly through the bottom of each horn into the ends of the casing with 2 18-gauge or 6d nails. If mitt nailing, drill pilot holes.

Tip: To cut snug-fitting beveled ends, put casing face on 1/8-inch-thick chip 3 inches from the miter-saw blade.

Pace 6

Add together Head Casing

Hold a length of casing across the top of the window and mark where it meets the inside edge of each side casing. With a miter saw, make square crosscuts at those marks.

Gum the caput casing to the head jamb, making sure its lesser edge lines up with the reveal line.

Pace 7

Add Corner Blocks

Test fit the corner blocks at both corners to bank check for gaps. Trim the edges of the block with a aeroplane as needed to go a tight fit.

Apply a thin bead of glue to those edges of the block that volition join the side and head casing. Then dab mucilage on the back of the block; put it in place.

If using a pneumatic nailer, drive 18-gauge nails into each corner. If hand nailing, drill pilot holes, and then drive in 8d terminate nails.

Footstep eight

Cut and Install the Frock

Hold a length of frock stock face down on the stool. Mark the stock where information technology meets each side casing's outside border. At the marks, make square cuts with a miter saw.

To apparel up the ends of an apron, hold the terminate of a scrap frock piece perpendicular to the face of the piece just cutting. Face the scrap'southward contour toward the cease of the frock and make the edges flush. Trace the scrap'south contour onto the face up of the apron. Repeat on the other end. Cut forth the pencil lines with a jigsaw or coping saw, and sand polish.

Apply glue along the top border of the apron, marshal its ends with the outside edges of the side casing, and press the top edge against the lesser of the stool.

Footstep ix

Finish upward the Installation

Recess all smash heads with a boom set and hammer, and so fill the holes with wood putty. Let the putty to dry out overnight.

Using 120-dust sandpaper, lightly manus-sand the putty flush with the surrounding wood. Then lightly sand the casings, corner blocks, stool and apron.

Wipe away all sanding dust with a tack rag, then apply a coat of stain and varnish, or primer and paint.

Source: https://www.thisoldhouse.com/windows/21016389/how-to-trim-out-a-window

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